Okay, so I'm moving onto the pants next because I know exactly what I want for them (jeans). Good reference images are very important to make jeans actually look like jean. Getting that "jeans" look is not hand-painted easily. I had these images that I used to grab my textures from. Again - they came from http://www.3d.sk! Haha - I'm a walking advertisment for this site, I swear... But this just goes to show that it's worth a subscriptions. Every texutre I've used on this guy was from that site, so I highly recommend it.

The image may be of a jean skirt but it actually made it even more perfect since it has a lot more surface to grab texture from.

Open the UV layout texture for the pants, set it up just like we did with the head so that your UVs are on a seperate layer with a blank background and save it as a .psd file. In 3dsmax open the material editor (m) and setup one of the blank material slots so that it's pointing to the psd file you just saved and apply that material to the legs.

Back in photoshop, copy portions of the jeans and edit it so it fills the whole background of the image. After I'd managed to get a solid backdrop of 'jeans' cloth, I started copying in seams and other details.

Remember, if you are having trouble lining anything up with the edges/seams of your UVs, that you can use Liquify (Filter > Liquify) to nudge/curve parts so that they fit better.

I found myself frequently sharpening things as I copied them in and scaled them. Especially the seams.

Like I said earlier, we are not aiming for any cloth wrinkles here - Not yet! So try not to get too many of those. We just want a simple base to work from.

Remember to check your progress in 3dsmax to make sure you're lining things up correctly. Make sure you're getting the seams in loctions that you actually like and make sure things aren't being stretched/squished.

Once the base is done, I start painting in the wrinkles.

I start by setting up my layers. I create (at least) two new layers above all my jeans and seam layers. I have a Highlights (HLs) layer and a Shades (Shds) layer. I set the HLs layer's Mode to Screen and the Shds Mode to Multiple.

When a layer's mode is set to screen, you can paint with solid colors, and it makes it look more like you're using the dodge tool directly on the layer. The bonus is that you can use smudge, etc. on what you paint, without messing up your base texture. Screen brightens, Multiply darkens. That's the basics. You paint with shades of grays/tinted grays to vary how dark or light it makes it. Pretty simple and very useful.

I find it's best to have a reference when painting cloth wrinkles. You'll have a much better idea of what to aim for and where to put things if you have a real-life equivilant to look at as reference. I had this image (above) open on my secondary monitor while I painted the wrinkles in photoshop.

I start out very messy. Scribbles to lay in my plans. You can also use this as a quick way to check to see if things are going to look correct in max. Get down the basic idea first, save, check 3dsmax and if somethings not right, you haven't done too much work yet, so its not such a big deal to go back and change/fix anything.

Use darker tones (like a dark gray-blue) on your Shds (multiply) layer and don't be afraid to vary it some. Pick a ligher shade of dark blue-gray for some details, and add in darker shds in bigger wrinkles.

Then I go in with the Smooth tool and blend things together better. I smooth out the scribbles so that they look like actual clothing wrinkles, save it and preview it in 3dsmax.

So once I checked out my work in max, I found a couple areas I didn't like. I didn't like the wrinkles in the knees or the way the cloth looked on the thighs so I went back and fixed those up.

Then I moved onto the back of the legs. I use a different reference image (same model, just a rear view) so I'd get better cloth folds.

Again - messy quick strokes to lay out my plans and get things to a point where I can check in max to make sure they're lining up properly.

Smooth it out, check max, make any adjustments you need to make. I actually felt that it had slightly too much contrast so I reduced the opacity of the HLs and Shds layers. When you're good and done flatten the image (Image > Flatten Image), apply a sharpen to it (Filter > Sharpen) and save it as a .tga or similar format.